Restaurant Review: Paragon for Portland Dining Month

Dinner at Paragon for Portland Dining Month // Serious Crust by Annie FasslerDinner at Paragon for Portland Dining Month // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler

Have you heard of Portland Dining Month? If not, I would really like to tell you about it. Portland does this month long event called dining month, where nearly 100 restaurants create a three-course menu for $29. Yes. It is fantastic. Now, some restaurants will have a strict 3 course menu, and others will allow you to pick from a few options, or even their entire menu. It’s really fantastic. It’s a perfect way to (affordably) try some really amazing restaurants, and you don’t have to try to make it there before the end of happy hour (another great way to try restaurants).

Needless to say, I am always excited when dining month rolls around, and I try to make it to at least one restaurant, if not many. So when Portland Bloggers teamed up with Watershed Communications to supply a few lucky bloggers with gift certificates to some participating restaurants for dining month, I knew I wanted to enter the drawing, and I was lucky enough to get a gift certificate to Paragon Restaurant in the mail a week later!

I’d heard of Paragon before, but had never been. Nestled in the Pearl district on 13th and Hoyt, it was definitely a welcome, cozy, warm atmosphere, as it was pouring outside when we visited last night. The bar space is really cool with an old blinking bingo sign on the wall, and some beautiful light fixtures over the dining room. It has a modern industrial feel while still being very inviting. After being seated, Jonah and I decided we’d start with cocktails – I went with the house Manhattan, and Jonah went with a house drink similar to a gin martini served with olives stuffed with bleu cheese.

Dinner at Paragon for Portland Dining Month // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
Dinner at Paragon for Portland Dining Month // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
Dinner at Paragon for Portland Dining Month // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
Dinner at Paragon for Portland Dining Month // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler

I liked the Paragon Dining Month menu because there were options. For the first course, a choice of the daily gazpacho or an asparagus and poached egg salad. The gazpacho sounded interesting – a red grape base with cream and basil oil – so I decided to try that, and Jonah went with the asparagus salad. And of course, we shared. The soup was good, if a little sweet for a soup starter. The asparagus salad was delicious, served on a bed of frisée and topped with some gremolata. Between these two dishes, the asparagus salad was the favorite.

For the next course, there were three entrées to choose from: sweet potato gnocchi with poached pears and gorgonzola cream, braised short rib with green chile grits and kale, and salt-cured true cod with gigantic bean ragout. Our server, Jamie (who was so lovely and made us feel right at home), recommended the gnocchi, and we both wanted to try the short rib. Both entrées were fantastic – full of flavor, and all of the elements really worked well together. The short rib was cooked to perfection and fell apart at the nudge of a fork. The green chile grits were unique, and went nicely with the meat. The gnocchi was soft and pillowy, the little pieces of poached pear added a nice fruity freshness, and the dish was topped with some chopped hazelnuts, which lent a great crunch. We also ordered a glass of wine with dinner, and I loved that all of their glasses are very reasonably priced, and they have more than a few options.

For dessert, Jonah got the lemon curd with macerated rhubarb (where are they getting rhubarb this time of year and can they please tell me about this secret source?), and I went with the butterscotch pudding topped with whipped cream and peanut brittle. While the lemon curd was good, we both wished it had been a little thicker and more custard like. The butterscotch putting was lovely and nutty and sweet, and I once again loved the crunch that the peanut brittle contributed.

Now you know what Paragon is serving for their Portland Dining Month menu. You can read the list of participating restaurants and their menus here. Below are some other places I would recommend taking advantage of the three courses for $29! Let me know in the comments which restaurants you’ve tried or are dying to go to for dining month!

Anise Ice Cream with Cardamom

Anise Ice Cream // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler

Anise Ice Cream // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
Anise Ice Cream // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
Anise Ice Cream // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler

I went to Seattle this past weekend. My aunt was visiting, and I needed to get out of town a bit. It turned out that he was also having this dinner with friends. He has all these friends who cook, and so they’re starting this dinner club kind of thing, like an extremely organized potluck.

It’s really cute – whoever is hosting picks a cuisine or a cookbook, and sends the guests recipes to make. My dad picked the Pok Pok cookbook, and oh my goodness, the meal was incredible. We helped him make the famous chicken wings (which were exactly like the real thing), which was so fun. And for dessert I made this dish I’ve been working on with my baker friend Caitlyn (post coming soon, we still have a bit more testing to do). Wanting something to top it with, I decided to also make some ice cream from David Lebovitz’s The Perfect Scoop. So what goes with a slightly Asian cake, and an incredibly flavorful dinner? I picked the anise ice cream, and decided to add a touch of cardamom.

This ice cream is beautiful – extremely creamy, herbaceous, and perfectly sweet, I could have gladly eaten just a bowl of the ice cream for dessert (or for a snack, which I did the next day). After making (and eating) this ice cream, I proceeded to take pictures of many recipes in The Perfect Scoop so I can make them at home… because unfortunately, I don’t have the book for myself.

Anise Ice Cream with Cardamom

Ingredients

2 tsp anise seeds
2-3 green cardamom pods
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
2/3 cup sugar
1 1/2 Tbl good quality honey
pinch of salt
5 egg yolks

Instructions

Toast the anise seeds and cardamom in a small saucepan over medium heat for about 3 minutes, or until fragrant. To the saucepan add 1 cup of the cream, the milk, sugar, honey, and salt. Keep saucepan over heat until the liquid is warm, then cover, remove from heat, and let steep for an hour.

After an hour, re-warm the milk mixture over low heat. Pour the remaining 1 cup of cream into a medium mixing bowl, with a sieve set over the top. In another bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. When the milk mixture is warm, slowly pour it into the bowl of egg yolks, whisking constantly. Then, pour the milk and egg yolk mixture back into the original saucepan and cook over medium heat. Stir it constantly, preferably with a heatproof spatula, until the mixture has thickened and coats the spatula or spoon. Pour this custard through the strainer into the bowl with the cream, and stir it so the cream is fully incorporated. Set this bowl in an ice bath and stir to cool. Refrigerate until cooled through, and then churn based on your machine’s instructions. Enjoy!

Weekend Finds 3:1:14: Kitchen Art

I’ve made a decision. Sometimes, when my weekend finds have a theme, I will title them as such. Isn’t that sensible? I thought, hm, maybe I could collect all the cool kitchen art and share it with readers all at once, so that if they’re looking for kitchen art, they can look at one post? Or perhaps if they’re looking for some fun wooden spoons, all of those are in one place? Or perhaps, if there are some kitchens I’m lusting to cook in, I can show them all to you at once? I’m not saying all of my weekend finds from here on out will have a theme. But when the time is right, they might. I hope that’s alright. This week, as I mentioned, I’m obsessed with kitchen art.

1. Radicchio Vegetable Print

Kitchen Art: Radicchio Print // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
Radicchio print, found on Design*Sponge.

I really like a lot of prints from this shop on Etsy, but I love love love this radicchio print. I discovered it via Design*Sponge, and keep plotting a way I can have it, and where I can put it.

2. Sugarboo Postcards

Kitchen Art: Radish postcard from Sugarboo // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
“You’re so rad(ish)”

I really like postcards, and I have always thought it would be fun to get postcards separately framed and hang a grid of them on a large-ish wall. I think some of these food and friend related ones from Sugarboo are so sweet. My favorite has to be the radish postcard pictured above.

3. Let’s Call the Whole Thing Off

Kitchen Art: "Let's Call the Whole Thing Off" print // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
Tomato, tom-ah-to, potato, pot-ah-to…

Yes, that’s the name of this print from Society 6. Yes, I’ve been pining after this print for years. It combines old music (remember how much I’ve mentioned my Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong Pandora station?) and food, and I just think it’s so sweet. I would hang it anywhere, but feel it would be perfect in a kitchen.

4. Illustrated Recipes from Felicita Sala

Kitchen Art: Illustrated Recipe for Banana Bread // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
These illustrated recipes are so sweet.

I think these illustrated recipes are so sweet. I’d love to have one on my wall – I love the mixture of text and drawings. The best part: it’s functional too!

5. Cutting Boards

Kitchen Art: Cutting boards! // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
There are almost too many options when it comes to beautiful cutting boards.

Not all your kitchen art has to bed 2D. Speaking of functional decorations, there are some beautiful cutting boards out there – some vintage like this one, some modern like these. Maybe these state shaped cutting boards are more your style. Or these chevron ones. Just make sure, if you’re going to try something heavy, that you secure it safely to the wall with a nice sturdy hook or nail. Most of these have holes or straps, or I’m sure they could be easily added.

6. Prints from your favorite blog/cookbook

Kitchen Art: Smitten Kitchen Photographs // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
I love this pomegranate photo from Smitten Kitchen.

You might be surprised to find that some of your favorite blogs might be selling their prints, or if they aren’t already, they might be willing to if you contact them and ask them reeeeaaaally nicely. For example, love Smitten Kitchen’s photos? You can find some for sale here.

Restaurant Review: Maurice

Restaurant Review: Maurice // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler

Restaurant Review: Maurice // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
Restaurant Review: Maurice // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler

Ever since I first read about Maurice, I had been wanting to go. A pastry luncheonette – doesn’t that sound like the sweetest place in the world?

The nice thing about Jonah working downtown is that sometimes we’ll meet for lunch, and I get to try places that I wouldn’t normally visit (southwest Portland is not a place I really frequent). So when we decided to do lunch last week, I asked if we could go to Maurice.

It’s a tiny little place, right near Powell’s and Thai Peacock. An all white interior makes for a cheery brightness, even on dreary days (which is was when we went). There is one larger table for maybe up to 6 people, a few booths for 2, and a counter along the kitchen. The place has a very European vibe, and the light and simple interior is refreshing to me.

We went on the later side, and they had run out of one of their lunch dishes. So we decided to go with the brioche tartine with melted cheese, rye seeds, served with mustard and carrots, and the lefse with salmon roe and gravlax. For dessert, I decided on a layered mousse cup (caramel and mocha flavors) with a kind of cookie crumble. While I did thoroughly enjoy the food, I must say I was slightly disappointed in the size of the dishes, particularly when you factor in the price ($8.00 for each dish, and $10.00 for the dessert, as it was a special that day). Or rather, the price of the dishes, when you factor in the size. I am not afraid to spend a bit of money on food, but I left feeling… well, hungry. The service was fantastic, the space was lovely, and the food was delicious, but my advice would be if you’re going to go (which I definitely think you should), just know that you’re either going to spend a bit to fill up, or you’re going just for a snack.

Ice Cream Cake

Ice Cream Cake // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler

Ice Cream Cake // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
Ice Cream Cake // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler
Ice Cream Cake // Serious Crust by Annie Fassler

When I asked Carmelle what kind of cake she wanted for her birthday this year, and she replied, “ice cream cake,” I was stumped. I mean, not so stumped. I’ve had ice cream cake before. I understand the concept. But I’ve certainly never made one. In a summer cooking camp I did when I was younger, I made a baked alaska, but I certainly wasn’t going to attempt that. My mom used to make a version of ice cream cake with Ho hos: she would take a big metal bowl, line it with slices of Ho hos, fill the bowl with ice cream, freeze it, and then turn it out, so it looked something like this.

So I suppose it was officially time to learn to make my own ice cream cake. I had a choice to make: do I make the kind with an actual layer of cake in it? Or do I make the kind that just has layers of ice cream and chocolate sauce and magical cookie crumbles?

I decided to go with the latter. If I’d had more time I would’ve made my own ice cream, it turned out it was a crazy weekend (full of Valentine’s Day, a bar mitzvah, work, and an Amos Lee concert), so there wasn’t time for that madness. Still though, ice cream making is on my to-do list.

I decided to use a recipe from Not Without Salt (NWS) as a guideline, except I wanted to just buy Oreo crumbs at the store instead of making my own chocolate wafers. At this point, I was thinking more along the lines of cake assembly than actual creation. Don’t judge me. After hitting the grocery store (note to self: NEVER go to Fred Meyer’s on a Sunday again), and not finding Oreo crumbs or any wafers I liked, I decided to make them myself. And because I’ve been eyeing Smitten Kitchen’s chocolate wafers, I decided to go with that recipe. Interestingly, something I noticed after I had already made the wafers was that both Smitten Kitchen and Not Without Salt identify Alice Medrich as the cook behind the recipe for their wafers, though they do differ a bit. What I’m saying is, if you decide to go with NWS’s chocolate wafer recipe, I’m sure it will be just as delicious.

Ice Cream Cake

Note: For your ice cream, I would suggest something smooth like coffee, or with small pieces in it, like mint chocolate chip. Carmelle requested cookie dough ice cream, and while it was certainly delicious to get the chunks of cookie dough, it made it a little trickier to slice and serve.

Ingredients

Chocolate Wafers

1 1/2 cups flour
3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 cup + 2 Tbl sugar
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp baking soda
14 Tbl (1 3/4 sticks) butter, softened
3 Tbl milk (higher fat is better, because we’re baking here, people)
1 tsp vanilla extract

Chocolate Fudge Sauce

1 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup  corn syrup (I used dark because I liked the slight molasses smell to it, but light or golden syrup will work)
1/3 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup cocoa powder
1 cup (6 oz) bittersweet chocolate (you can use chopped baking chocolate or chips, whatever is convenient for you)
2 Tbl butter
1/4 tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla extract

1 gallon of ice cream of your choice, or 2 quarts of ice creams of your choice

Instructions

Chocolate Wafers

First, let’s make the wafers. In the bowl of your food processor, combine the dry ingredients and pulse to mix. Cut the butter into chunks and add it to the bowl as well, pulsing again until evenly distributed. In a small bowl, combine the milk and vanilla extract, and then add it to the bowl with the food processor running. Transfer the dough to a bowl and knead a few times to bring it together. On a piece of parchment or wax paper, form the dough into a ~14-inch log, wrap it in the parchment or wax paper, and refrigerate for an hour, or freeze for 20-30 minutes, or until firm.

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees, and line baking sheets with parchment paper. Slice the log of dough into ~1/4 inch slices, thinner if you’d like, but keep an eye on baking time. Place them on pans about an inch apart, and bake for 12-15 minutes, rotating halfway through. Allow to cool on the pan for a minute or two, as they’ll break easily. Which, for our purposes isn’t the end of the world, but you will have extras, and maybe you want those to be unbroken.

Chocolate Fudge Sauce

Before making the fudge, I recommend taking your ice cream out of the freezer to soften.

To make the fudge, combine the cream, corn syrup, sugar, and cocoa powder in a pan. Bring this mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a steady simmer. Allow it to simmer for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. After 5 minutes, remove the pan from the heat and stir in the chocolate, butter, salt, and vanilla. Keep stirring so the chocolate and butter melt, and run through a sieve, preferably into a microwave safe bowl, make sure there are no clumps of cocoa powder. My fudge had a little trouble, and decided to separate (super fun!). Jonah had the brilliant idea to just get out the immersion blender, and I would suggest the same should the separation happen to you. But I sincerely hope it doesn’t. Set fudge aside and let it cool down a bit. Because you have to make this cake in layers and freeze between each layer, the microwave safe bowl comes in handy when you need to warm up (and potentially blend) your fudge sauce.

Now let’s assemble the cake. Put about 20-25 of the chocolate wafers in a big ziploc bag, and beat it with a rolling pin, until the cookies are completely crumbled and there are no pieces larger than a pea. In an 8 or 9 inch springform pan, spread 1/2 of your gallon of ice cream, or one of the quarts. Make sure it’s evenly spread, so it’s roughly the same thickness all the way around the pan. Sprinkle half the cookie crumbs on the ice cream, and then drizzle/spread half the hot fudge over the cookie. Put the pan in the freezer for 30-45 minutes to set. After it has firmed up a bit, spread the second half of ice cream over the fudge, then sprinkle over the remaining cookie crumbs and spread over that the remaining fudge. Put the cake in the freezer until you’re ready to serve, at least an hour.

When you’re ready to eat this bad boy, remove from the freezer and run a knife around the edge before un-molding the cake. Serve and enjoy!